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Smacks Booster 1
Smacks Booster



The Smacks Booster is a piece of equipment which increases the mpg performance of a car or motorcycle,
and reduces the harmful emissions dramatically. It does this by using some current from the vehicles
battery to break water into a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen gasses called hydroxy gas which is then
added to the air which is being drawn into the engine. The hydroxy gas improves the quality of the fuel burn
inside the engine, increases the engine power, cleans old carbon deposits off the inside of an old engine,
reduces the unwanted exhaust emissions and improves the mpg figures under all driving conditions,
provided that the fuel computer does not try to pump excess fuel into the engine when it detects the much
improved quality of the exhaust.

This hydroxy booster is easy to make and the components dont cost much. The technical performance of
the unit is very good as it produces 1.7 litres of hydroxy gas per minute at a very reasonable current draw.
This is how to make and use it.

Caution: This is not a toy. If you make and use one of these, you do so entirely at your own risk.
Neither the designer of the booster, the author of this document or the provider of the internet
display are in any way liable should you suffer any loss or damage through your own actions. While
it is believed to be entirely safe to make and use a booster of this design, provided that the safety
instructions shown below are followed, it is stressed that the responsibility is yours and yours alone.



The Safety Gear

Before getting into the details of how to construct the booster, you must be aware of what needs to be done
when using any booster of any design. Firstly, hydroxy gas is highly explosive. If it wasnt, it would not be
able to do its job of improving the explosions inside your engine. Hydroxy gas needs to be treated with
respect and caution. It is important to make sure that it goes into the engine and nowhere else. It is also
important that it gets ignited inside the engine and nowhere else.

To make these things happen, a number of common-sense steps need to be taken. Firstly, the booster must
not make hydroxy gas when the engine is not running. The best way to arrange this is to switch off the
current going to the booster. It is not sufficient to just have a manually-operated dashboard On/Off switch as
it is almost certain that switching off will be forgotten one day. Instead, the electrical supply to the booster is
routed through the ignition switch of the vehicle. That way, when the engine is turned off and the ignition key
removed, it is certain that the booster is turned off as well.

So as not to put too much current through the ignition switch, and to allow for the possibility of the ignition
switch being on when the engine is not running, instead of wiring the booster directly to the switch, it is better
to wire a standard automotive relay across the oil pressure sending unit and let the relay carry the booster
current. If the engine stops running, the oil pressure drops and if the booster is connected as shown, then
this will also power down the booster.

An extra safety feature is to allow for the (very unlikely) possibility of an electrical short-circuit occurring in the
booster or its wiring. This is done by putting a fuse or contact-breaker between the battery and the new
circuitry as shown in this sketch:



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If you choose to use a contact-breaker, then a light-emitting diode (LED) with a current limiting resistor of
say, 680 ohms in series with it, can be wired directly across the contacts of the circuit breaker. The LED can
be mounted on the dashboard. As the contacts are normally closed, they short-circuit the LED and so no
light shows. If the circuit-breaker is tripped, then the LED will light up to show that the circuit-breaker has
operated. The current through the LED is so low that the electrolyser is effectively switched off when the
contact breaker opens. This is not a necessary feature, merely an optional extra:







In the first sketch, you will notice that the booster contains a number of metal plates and the current passing
through the liquid inside the booster (the electrolyte) between these plates, causes the water to break up
into the required hydroxy gas mix. A very important safety item is the bubbler which is just a simple
container with some water in it. The bubbler has the gas coming in at the bottom and bubbling up through
the water. The gas collects above the water surface and is then drawn into the engine through an outlet pipe
above the water surface. To prevent water being drawn into the booster when the booster is off and cools
down, a one-way valve is placed in the pipe between the booster and the bubbler.

If the engine happens to produce a backfire, then the bubbler blocks the flame from passing back through
the pipe and igniting the gas being produced in the booster. If the booster is made with a tightly-fitting lid
rather than a screw-on lid, then if the gas in the bubbler is ignited, it will just blow the lid off the bubbler and
rob the explosion of any real force. A bubbler is a very simple, very cheap and very sensible thing to install.
It also removes any traces of electrolyte fumes from the gas before it is drawn into the engine.

You will notice that the wires going to the plates inside the electrolyser are both connected well below the
surface of the liquid. This is to avoid the possibility of a connection working loose with the vibration of the
vehicle and causing a spark in the gas-filled region above the surface of the liquid, and this volume is kept as
low as possible as another safety feature.



The Design

The booster is made from a length of 4-inch diameter PVC pipe, two caps, several metal plates, a couple of
metal straps and some other minor bits and pieces.

This is not rocket science, and this booster can be built by anybody. A clever extra feature is the transparent
plastic tube added to the side of the booster, to show the level of the liquid inside the booster without having
to unscrew the cap. Another neat feature is the very compact transparent bubbler which is actually attached
to the booster and which shows the gas flow coming from the booster. The main PVC booster pipe length
can be adjusted to suit the available space beside the engine.

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Bubbler connections close up:


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This booster uses cheap, standard electrical stainless steel wall switch covers from the local hardware store
and stainless steel straps cut from the handles of a wide range of stainless steel food-preparation ladles:



The electrical cover plates are clamped together in an array of eight closely-spaced pairs of covers. The
plates are held in a vise and the holes drilled out to the larger size needed. The covers are further treated
by being clamped to a workbench and dented using a centre-punch and hammer. These indentations raise
the gas output from 1.5 lpm to 1.7 lpm as the both increase the surface area of the cover and provide points
from which the gas bubbles can drop off the cover more easily. The more indentations the better.

The active surfaces of the plates - that is, the surfaces which are 1.6 mm apart from each other, need to be
prepared carefully. To do this, these surfaces are scored in an X-pattern using 36-grade coarse sandpaper.
Doing this creates miniature sharp-crested bumps covering the entire surface of each of these plates. This
type of surface helps the hydroxy bubbles break away from the surface as soon as they are formed. It also
increases the effective surface area of the plate by about 40%. I know that it may seem a little fussy, but it
has been found that fingerprints on the plates of any electrolyzer seriously hinder the gas production
because they reduce the working area of the plate quite substantially. It is important then, to either avoid all
fingerprints (by wearing clean rubber gloves) or finish the plates by cleaning all grease and dirt off the
working surfaces with a good solvent, which is washed off afterwards with distilled water. Wearing clean
rubber gloves is by far the better option as cleaning chemicals are not a good thing to be applying to these
important surfaces.

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Shown above are typical hand tools used to create the indentations on the plates. The active plate surfaces
that is, the surfaces which are 1.6 mm apart are indented as well as being sanded.

An array of these prepared plates is suspended inside a container made from 4-inch (100 mm) diameter
PVC pipe. The pipe is converted to a container by using PVC glue to attach an end-cap on one end and a
screw-cap fitting on the other. The container then has the gas-supply pipe fitting attached to the cap, which
is drilled with two holes to allow the connecting straps for the plate array to be bolted to the cap, as shown
here:






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In order to ensure that the stainless steel straps are tightly connected to the electric wiring, the cap bolts are
both located on the robust, horizontal sur