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Engine Room Manual
1
Engine Room Manual
Updated July, 2004
TABLE of CONTENTS
6 ADD WATER & EMPTY POOL
7 AIR COMPRESSOR
18 ANTIQUE ENGINES
8 ATTENTION GETTERS
13 BATTERIES
12 CASTLE FIRE SYSTEM
13 CHLORINATION & pH OF POOL
14 COMPARISON OF PUMPS
19 ELECTICAL POWERS, PGE
35 ELECTRIC PUMP #3
46 NEWEST #3 JACUZZI FIRE PUMP
12 ENGINE ORDER TELEGRAPH
20 ENGINE ORDERS
5 FILTER BACKWASHING
2 FILTERING THE POOL
38 FILTERS OF THE POOL
17 FILTERS, WELL WATER
17 FILTERS, GENERAL PATTON
21 FIRE ALARMS
32 FIRE OPERATIONS
23 FIRE SPRINKLERS
39 FOUNTAINS
25 FREEZING WEATHER
26 FRESH WATER SYSTEMS
28 GENERATOR
27 HISTORY OF THE POOL
29 MAIN ELECTRIC PUMP #1
31 MAINTENANCE MAIN ELEC PUMP
10 MAIN FIRE PUMP (GASOLINE)
40 MAINTENANCE OF THE POOL
50 MAINTENANCE GENERAL
49 MAINTENANCE PLUMBING
34 NORMAL SETTINGS,
37 OBSOLETE EQUIPMENT
41 POOL CLEANER PUMPS
3 POOL CLEANERS
42 POWER IS OFF
43 PRESSURE TANK AIR
11 PRIMING GASOLINE FIRE PUMP
4 PRIMING GENERAL PATTON PUMP
43 ROOF SPRINKLERS
45 TROUBLE SHOOTING
47 VALVES, BY FUNCTIONAL ORDER
46 VALVES, SORTED NUMERICALLY
52 WATER FLOW CHARTS
32 WELL, NEW (Upper) 250 DEEP
36 WELL, OLD 60
37 WELL, SPRING
53 WIRING DIAGR, ELECTRIC PUMP 2
FILTERING THE POOL
TO FILTER WITH # 1 MAIN ELECTRIC PUMP:
Open Valves # 18, # 19, # 30 (intakes normally open)
# 61, # 62, # 64, # 65, # 66 (normally open)
and-- # 8 (move it slowly to prevent pounding)
**** NOTE-- # 8 MUST BE CLOSED WHEN NOT FILTERING SO
THAT FIRE SYSTEMS WILL HAVE MAX PRESS!
Close Valves # 10, # 16, # 17 (drains normally closed)
---> AH...NORMALLY, # 8 is the only valve to be changed when
starting and stopping filtration.
Start # 1 Main Electric Pump
TO FILTER WITH #3 ELECTRIC FIRE PUMP:
Open Valves , # 28 (intake, normally open)
# 61, # 62, # 64, # 65, # 66 (normally open)
and # 71 (move it slowly to prevent pounding)
Close Valve # 8 , # 26, # 60, [#26 allows suction from
other intakes (special stuff)]
---> AH...NORMALLY, # 71 is the only valve to be changed when
starting and stopping filtration.
Start # 3 Electric Fire Pump 3
POOL CLEANER, GENERAL PATTON
TO OPERATE POOL CLEANER (General Patton):
WARNING!!! --- The General's PUMP MUST NOT BE ON IF VALVE # 67
IS CLOSED (That is the suction line between the pool
filters and the redwood fence. (It will run dry and burn
out!).
Open Valves # 9, # 73 (in pool fence corner).
Start the General Patton Pump. He has two switches that must be
ON. One behind the redwood fence, at the end of the pool, and
one in the engine room to the right of the door.
On General Pattons pump, on the floor beneath the shelf, is a shut off
lever valve and an in line dirt filter. This filter must be cleaned weekly or
more often if there has been an excessive amount of dirt in the pool. To
clean it,
Stop General Patton.
Close the lever valve at the filter and close lever valve #68 to the
right of the pump.
Remove the filter and wash it clean.
Return the clean filter, open the lever valves and you are ready for
action. 4
PRIMING GENERAL PATTONS PUMP
General Patton has his own suction line and output line. The
suction enters from the 40mm flexible intake on the South side of
the pool.
TO PRIME:
Stop the pump.
Attach a garden hose to a functional garden faucet.
Connect the male end of the garden hose to the hose bib
located just above valve #68, with a double female
hose adapter. (This should already be in place).
Open the hose bib and valves #68 and the filter valve on
General Pattons filter.
Flush the line with fresh water from the garden hose. The
line is primed when no more air bubbles emerge from the
flexible intake pipe at the South side of the pool.
Close off the hose bibs, leave valve #68 and the filter valve
open and start the pump with General Patton set up ready to
roar.
Be sure he has about 60 psi on gauge. The pressure drops to
about 50 psi when the general is backing up. 5
BACK WASHING THE POOL FILTERS
BACKWASHING THE FILTERS
THIS SHOULD BE DONE WHEN THE MAIN DISCHARGE GAUGE READS A
BACK PRESSURE GREATER THAN 15 psi (otherwise you're not at full
efficiency). Ant ve alvays vont vull efficiency! Don't ve?
The Best Backwashing is accomplished by using both Electric Pumps (1 &
3) simultaneously for maximum ROAR.
Start with the Pumps OFF
Open Valves #60 & #63 (Filters A & B Flush to Fence)

WARNING!
If these valves (#60 & #63) are not opened,
the lids will be blown off of the filter tanks!
Open Valve #8 (adds #1 Pump to the Filtering System)
Open Valve #71 (Adds #3 Pump to the Filtering System)
WARNING!!! ...
DO NOT OPERATE PLUNGER VALVES ON FILTER TANKS
WHILE WATER IS FLOWING THROUGH THEM-- OR IT'S BAAAMMMM!
Prepare Filter A for backwashing:
Open valve #61 (Filter A input - if not already open)
Push Down and LOCK Filter A Plunger Valve A DOWN
Close Valve #62 (Filter B input)
Start the Pumps #1 and #3
Observe water discharging by fence until it is clear
Switch to Filter B backwashing:
Push down and LOCK Filter B Plunger Valve DOWN
Open Valve #62 (Filter B input)
Close Valve #61 (Filter A input)
Raise and Lock Filter A Plunger Valve A UP
Observe water discharging by fence until it is clear
Stop Pumps #1 & #3
Secure Filter B and Return Filter A to system:
Raise and Lock Filter B Plunger Valve B UP
Open Valve #61 (Filter A input)
Secure everything else:
Close Valves #60 & 63 (Filters A & B Flush to Fence)
Close Valve #71 (Removing Pump #3 from the filtering system)
Close Valve # 8 (If not proceeding with filtering)
The backwash is now complete and all is secured. 6
ADDITION & SUBTRACTION OF WATER TO THE POOL
ADDITION OF WATER TO THE POOL:
FROM SPRING WELL
Start Spring Well Pump -- Push its button. (Located on Main
Electrical Panel)
FROM SPRING WELL.
Lower a sump pump to the bottom of the spring well with a garden
hose into the pool bottom.
FROM DEEP WELLS:
Use a garden hose from a hose bib. The flow must be slow to
prevent pumping the wells down too low.
FROM REDWOOD TANK
Open Valves # 85 & # 82 (at Tank & at Spring Well)
IT REQUIRES ABOUT 5 to 6 DAYS TO FILL THE POOL FROM EMPTY
---> About #25 lbs of SODA ASH ARE NEEDED TO NEUTRALIZE THE WELL
WATER to pH 7.
---> No stabilizer is needed if ChlorBright chlorine crystals are used.
They have stabilizer built in.
DRAINING THE POOL
Use a sump pump with a 40mm hose and poly pipe to drain the water into
the woods behind the driveway. This area will absorb all the water
without runoff.
IT REQUIRES ABOUT 10 HOURS TO EMPTY
THE HOMEMADE TWO CYLINDER--
Also Very Neat, and was acquired from Les Haber.
These Two Magnificent Engines are now temporarily operating
on Compressed air while they are waiting for the restoration of The
Boiler.
This Boiler should burn the ultimate fuel-- Junk Mail! 7
AIR COMPRESSOR
The Air Compressor was given to the Boom by the Vacuum Cleaner
salesman who sold us an Electrolux, because this sale earned him a trip to
Hawaii.
Its original motor did conk out some years ago, and Bill Watson, a
student, donated the present one. (This is the same Watson who, with
Hans Thompson and Rick Emert did bring up a rototiller to start the Great
Tunnel from Castle to Catacombs).
The Compressor maintains the air pressure from 40-60 psi. when set
by the switch on the Electric Control Board or by the Laboratory remote
switch via a relay above the Main Control Board in the Engine Room.
The Tank and its pressure switch are located in the overhead of the
Engine Room.
Should air pressure not build up in the tank, as read on the gauge over
the Engine Room shelf, the Laboratory gauge, or the Garage gauge;
Check the following:
Little lever on compressor cylinder, it should point toward the belt.
Air Compressor Bleeder Cock, on Water and Oil Trap, behind
compressor.
Air valves at Poolside.
Air faucet in Engine Room
Well Depth Sounder in Engine Room
Whistle valves in Engine Room
Steam valves in Laboratory
Air faucet in Garage
Air hose in Garage
Beulah's valve (Great Air Horn by Study Door).
DRAINING THE WATER AND OIL TRAP:
This should be done three times per year. The more often done, the
less mess!
Start Compressor to build up pressure in the trap.
Stop Compressor.
Cover the Drain Cock with a dirty rag
Open the Cock.
LOOK OUT!